Trip Report 11/20-27/00 (Part I) I arrived and returned home without incident via American/ALM, all baggage in tact and on time. I have always had good luck, but generally travel on a weekday, which must be the key. Stayed at Lagoen Hills Townhomes – new construction and adequate for the budget traveler, however, shelving, storage space and closets are minimal and with two people it would have been very cramped. Ziplock Freezer storage bags are a must to keep things fresh and prevent the ants from invading. This is true no matter where you stay and the grocery is not open on Sunday, so plan ahead. They change the towels daily, whether you are there or not, dressed or un-, in bed or otherwise……but they don’t take the garbage away. It ended up on the front porch to avoid smelling up the place. And it made me think a lot about garbage – all the garbage we generate as tourists, all the plastic bags and bottles, no recycle program……I hope there is an incinerator on the island. If not, I think there should be measures to minimize the garbage, but I think that no matter where I am. At night, I missed the sound of the ocean lapping at the shore and found the location somewhat inconvenient – staying here requires a car – and it is not on the way to/from anything but Lagoen. Morning and evening will bring swarms of annoying little gnats to torment you without mercy and if the wind dies, the mosquitoes converge on exposed flesh. I dove through Habitiat, which is where I have stayed on past visits. Since it is the beginning of busy season, I think they accommodated me only because I have a friend who inquired on my behalf and could not get the time off to dive and play while I was there. Their first allegiance is to the on site guests, which is understandable, and I tried to only sign-up for boat dives not filled by the guests. Nonetheless, I was able to get in a few boat dives and I appreciate the convenience and efficiency of this operation as well as the friendliness of the staff. The boats are in good repair, the storage lockers/rinse tanks are conveniently located, drive-up access for loading tanks and gear is good and the divemasters do their best to insure that guests enjoy themselves and dive within safe limits. They were operating 2-3 boats at each departure (8:30, yawn, 11 and 2) and most were full. Although this is the beginning of busy season, town appeared to be remarkably quiet……I found myself wondering where everybody was hiding (and if I was missing something????) A brief shore dive from Habitat got me reorientated and I was thankful that the docks were back in operation since my visit last June. Had a peek at the octopus in front of Baby Doc as he shyly peered out from under an overturned mooring, patiently awaiting my departure. Also, spotted a baby Trunkfish – always an amusement to me with the clumsy way they maneuver their square-ish little polka-dotted bodies . Snorkled down to the reef cam that afternoon from Capt Don’s, since I had no shore access (a very long way)….once I got there I surveyed the area, creating a good visual imprint of the sight to provide mental enhancement capabilities once I was again confined to the view from my office chair. Discovered a 3 mil suit makes me spring to the surface like a bobber from 8 feet unless I’m kicking like a madman; prevented me from hanging at the reef cam long enough to greet anyone with a bubbly smile. Although it was a long way to snorkle, there was an incredible amount of life to see in the rubble – dinner plate sized Peacock Flounder, an Eagle Ray up close and personal (WAY COOL!!!), Chain, Sharptail and Goldentail eels, a very large Coronet Fish hanging at Small Wall dressed in a very dapper blue and brown plaid outfit and all of the other colorful life so typical in these crystalline waters. Don’t be fooled into believing there is nothing to see in the rubble – just look!…...after a wave at the street cam and “hello” to Jake and Linda, I decided we ought to grab a bite to eat. And that was the beginning of the end of a great vacation. The fateful meal, a cheese Clazone and salad laced with a healthy dose of Salmonella, was eaten while I waited (somewhat impatiently, with lots of anticipation) for a night dive at Jeff Davis. With Capt Don’s animated stories filtering through from the adjacent room I enjoyed the last meal I’d eat for three days. Jeff Davis was a great dive, thanks in no small part to Paula and Chris (Evergreen, CO), who were kind enough to lend me an extra light – mine had decided it would only stay lit for 2-3 seconds after I turned it on – worked fine during the day when I didn’t need it! This particular site was teeming with the tiny fat-lipped smiles if Balloon Fish everywhere you looked, and one of the biggest Porcupine fish I’ve ever seen; made me wonder how big it would be if it puffed. There was also an Orange Ball Corallimorph displaying bejeweled tentacles – uncommon and always a special treat. Absent were the usual abundance of Spotted Morays skulking about the reef, and I am told that the Spiny Lobsters and crabs are away on vacation at depth. Evenso, it was a great dive and I smiled contently while watching the stream of fairy-dust trailing from my fingers as I waved my hand through the darkness. By 0100 I was becoming aware that foreign intruders had launched an invasion and I was under attack from within…….as I lay half-awake, suffering immensely from abdominal pain, drenched in sweat, listening to the whirr of the ceiling fan, all I could think was “I want to die……” Well, I also pondered the sins of my forefathers and wondered if a former, great leader of the Arawak people had recently run into Montezuma in the netherworld and engaged in lengthy discussions pertaining to revenge and biological warfare..…..a feverish mind congers up strange notions. Twelve miserable hours later, I forced myself into the shower through sheer stubborness and vowed I would not surrender my vacation to a group of renegade microbes. I picked up a couple of friends and headed to Baby Beach for some surfing, with a stop to drop off Michael’s Stuffing Mix on the way. Not being a surfer, I watched from shore and entertained myself trying to corral little white sand crabs (also known as thumb splitters) and curiously poking around in the beach rubble to see what had washed ashore. I must admit being pulled through the surf by my ankle attached to a surfboard seems like about as much fun as …..food poisoning. I’m in no rush to try it. On the way back from Lac Bay, I discovered that four surfer-dudes and a driver will pop the tires on a tiny Toyota….next time they walk! Later that eve we headed to Lagoen for star-gazing and solitude, however, being that there are ghosts out there, and one of our party was mighty superstitious, we abruptly piled back into the car and headed up to the monument in Seru Largu (where the ghosts couldn’t get us) to take in the view – it was pretty spectacular. Evidently ghosts are not fond of altitude. After another sleepless night of GI distress, fever and chills, my muscles felt like they had been beaten with a wooden cane, my joints were painful and I was weak and dehydrated…..but I have an obedient body and it complied when I compelled it to carry gear, blow bubbles and have fun; albeit with much grumbling and muttering along the way. My stubborness was rewarded! A bright orange Frogfish perched proudly atop an orange Elephant Ear Sponge at Something Special – I think he’s been marching around on top of that sponge for at least two years and although his mate was around someplace, I suspect her camouflage was not in order and she wasn’t up for visitors. Must be this sponge is prime Frog Fish Real Estate. When we arrived at the sponge, there was another couple there with camera in hand working together to get a good pic – he was maneuvering to get a good angle and she was watching, pushing and nudging as necessary, to make sure he did not bump and damage the surrounding reef. I was impressed and hope they were able to compose a great shot! All the while, Mr. Frog Fish marched around on stubby little “legs”, confident in his concealment, smugly looking back at us. Something Special is as I remember it – resplendent with garbage in the shallows. |