Bonaire Report - Trip Feb 10 - March 3, 2001 - Ed and I
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Air Jamaica from Newark (stop in Baltimore) - no real problems, sat on Jamaica runway for a while on way back - was more of a problem of crying kids for us at the time. Can't beat getting to Bonaire in late afternoon for a swim before dinner. Leaving in late afternoon lets you have a nice morning snorkel and leisurely lunch. Air was arranged by Amy at Caradonna Tours (amy@caradonna.com). Were able to check in bags before lunch so didn't have to be back at airport until 3:00pm! All bags made it both ways. (ALM had cancelled a flight on 3/3/01 - many unhappy people at the airport.)

Stay at Black Durgon Inn http://www.blackdurgon.com/- small place north of Jake and Linda's house, dock just north of Small Wall dive site (in north beach cam picture), basic breakfast included. Many repeat visitors, could talk to people or just read in covered community kitchen / eating / sitting area at sea level used by many guests to make lunch or dinner, area used by all to sit and watch the sea. Sunsets over the water (green flash possible). Locked dive gear area at sea level. One tank at a time. No boat dives regularly from site but can arrange with Eddie Statia (599) 717-8409 or fax (599) 717-5085 - was $180 for boat last time but unsure this time. Lots of birds and an occasional iguana.

Car rental - ABcarrental - http://www.abcarrental.com/ - have never had a problem with them in all the years we have used them. We pick up at the airport and use for our whole visit. Like the standard shift, basic 4 door truck - cheap and easy for dive gear. Gets us everywhere on the island. No radio, no air but they have those options available for more money. We always reserve and ask for a white one - they are cooler. Leave windows open, doors unlocked while diving so you don't have to pay for a smashed window.

Diving tips -- take fresh water in empty plastic soda bottles and use for your face and regulator after diving. Put in sun for warm/hot water as wanted / needed. Use same water bottles - frozen - as ice for keeping soda cool on trips to the park or boat dives. No more melted ice water running around the car floor. Medium to hard soled booties for walking into the water to waist depth, then putting on fins - keeps you from falling down, just shuffle your feet and watch were you walk! Buddies are good for this part.

E-mail access -- used DeTuin (www.detuin.com) after dinner a few times. Have an e-mail server you can reach with a basic internet access and it works great. Down loads are slow but so is my home service so it didn't bother me.

Eating out -- Get the new Bonaire Dining Guide -- De Tuin for their BBQ ribs especially, Mi Poron for Keshi yena, Old Inn for Rijsttafel (share!!), Rendez-Vous for anything, Swiss Chalet for anything, Maiky Snack for goat stew or goat soup for lunch, the grill next to Zeezicht for a quick hamburger, Great China bar for Chinese roast chicken or Spanish style fish quickly, Richards for fish of the day (and the sunset), Bonaire style fish at Beefeater-- and many more places we tried. Takeout place in Rincon for Bami. Can't forget Prisca for Ice Cream in Rincon. Oh yes - Amstel beer from Jokes by the case, returnable bottles for us eco-divers (also have soda by the case).

Diving -- Visibility wasn't the best we have had (we had WIND, rain showers and surge the first week) , but you could see the fish and coral and when the south spots were choppy, you just went north! The elk and staghorn coral is coming back - check out Old Blue to see how much. In areas like where the reef cam is, small corals, hydroids and sponges are growing. Seems we saw more flamingo tongues, lettuce leaf nudibanch, Christmas tree worms, bristle worms, and polyclad flatworms this time. Glad to see small pen shells, basket stars, flame scallops and winged oysters growing. Some areas that were covered by the encrusting fan-leaf alga after the coral bleaching are being replaced by healthy coral now. Large schools of plankton eating Chromis (brown and blue) creole fish (at night) and creole wrasse, and schools of bogas.

Interesting fish this time - the 3 Black Brotulas in Small Wall cave!!, a LARGE school of SMALL black fin tuna that came by and by and by at Witches Hut!!, HUGE eagle ray at Red Slave, school of bone fish at red slave, school of white mullet in with bone fish at Red Slave, few schools of sennet on south reefs, 3 spanish mackerel, palometa at invisibles. Also the silly tarpon that kept going after the 'puffer' fish at Small Wall - he never seemed to learn (not the BIG one, the other one). More small turtles.

Different dive - Angel City outer reef, swim north (small current running that way) to Hilma Hooker, dive top of wreck (passing 5 tarpon and a few jacks), come back north on inshore reef - surface within 20 feet of entry point. My husband is GOOD at navigation.

Most fun - dancing in the streets for carnival, at various Jump-ups, with everyone else. (just quit on one street and pick it up at another
street) Yes, Ed and I were the older couple doing that in Rincon and in town. Also watching ALL the Carnival parades.

Different thing on this trip than in the other 20 yrs of trips -- seeing a fin whale - a good look as we were driving past Hilltop, down along the shore road north of Oil Slick Leap. We were going the same direction, the whale 'blew' quite a few times before he did a terminal dive and we never saw it again. Note: we had lots of spot-winged comb jellies in the water at Witch's Hut that morning dive and night divers reported lots of 'shrimp-like' things in the water at small wall the night before.

Why we continue to come to Bonaire - dive freedom (I can made my dive and stay 'out' while my husband goes in since he uses more air than I do), access to much of the shore (but we are missing some of the wonderful spots we had in the early 80's since the areas are now developed and I can't walk from the parking lot with my gear) , wonderful people. Plus we like to bird - even a trip to the laundry 'got' us an Ani.

New gear for this year - now using a new 5 mm 'gold' wet suit. Slipped on and off easily and I was warm on all dives without my hood for 3 weeks. New fins that didn't stress my bad knees (can't believe a difference the fins made even with my not so bad rt. knee). New booties with a firmer sole - easier to walk over coral pieces.

Best thing - meeting the people on Bonaire - (ncluding discussion group people! (And my buddy, husband Ed, who gets me in and out of the water without hurting my knee again.)

I so appreciate the experienced traveler's report. Thanks Peggy! (Whale --Wow!) Not that an enthusiastic newcomer's report isn't also very interesting and reinforcing, but the long perspective is terrific.

Awesome report Peggy!!!!!

Okay Peggy. You've been holding out on me. What new fins that don't hurt your knees? My knee wants to know.

Excellent! Thanks Peggy!

My knees NEED to know about those fins to, please!!

These knees need your info,too!!

Peggy thanks for your report. One of my favorite dives is the outer reef starting north or south of the Hooker and coming back via the inner reef. There seems to always be a feeding frenzy out there on the second reef. I appreciate you giving us web address to click for information. Very helpful. I think I will have to get a tank fill up; hook up my reg and get a compressed air fix. I need it real bad! Thanks again.

New fins are Mares Volo -- they have a bendable part half-way down the blade. Never thought that something like a change of fins would be that much different for my knees. But I was able to swim without pain in either knee for most of the 3 weeks of diving. I really like the buckle too, easy to get on and off (and my left knee doesn't bend to much so that is important).
Linda - Think I said something about the fins and wetsuit at the kids parade but then there was so much going on... Would have let you take them out for a spin. The fins (with me) are coming back next year!
We REALLY like Bonaire. Things are not the same as they were in 1981. But then things are not the same here in New Jersey either.
We are on a budget so don't do the 'fancy'. We would rather stay longer than pay lots for an airconditioned truck for example. And on all our vacations, where ever we are, we eat lots of peanut butter and jelly!

Peggy,Loved your report and your spirit!maska danki!

I ditto Niki's comments! The benefit of your experience and helpful hints - MUCH APPRECIATED! Familiarity is such a nice thing, IMHO.

And your right on the money with PB&J - it's cheap, ubiquitous and will never give you food poisoning!

Peggy, great report. I too am a regular at the Black Durgon. I have heard Al speak of you and Ed from time to time, but I don't think our paths have crossed. Your report makes it hard for me to contain myself until my next trip in May. You are one of the few who have found and commented on the outstanding food at one of Bonaire's most out of the way places called Makiey's snack. I like the goat, but I especially like the pan fried fish in Bonariean creole sauce(with extra fried onions)umh..umh...wish I had some right now! Maybe we will meet at the Black Durgon someday. Thanks again for a fine report.

Lonni - Al and I (and Ed too) go WAY back, from here in New Jersey when Al had Divers Cove. I bought my first Unisuit from him - maybe in 77 or 78. Ed bought all his equipment from him in 81. As you might have seen from our 'sign', we are down at Black Durgon mostly in the winter months. Lately we have been attending carnival.
Maiky snack is a favorite of ours for the goat soup - not too heavy on our tummys and the price is right. I like it with funchi. Boy would that be nice right now! We are trying to get down again next year - late Jan or so for 3 1/2 weeks this time. And yes, we have heard of you too (and I see your name on this board...)

peggy, isnt it funny how good peanut butter and jelley taste on Bonaire? we went out to eat abit more than usual the last trip and next year we will curb that some. but i dont mind mac and cheese, peanut butter or simple sandwiches we can make, just to afford more days on Paradise.

With all the 'new' places to eat, we ate out more this trip too! Will have to be on a strict budget for more days next year! Oh well, we Really enjoyed ourselves. On our 5 week trip to Newfoundland a few years ago, we ate 4 jars of P&J - but the places we ate it were spectatular (whales breaching just down the cliff, Ed parking the car within feet of the lighthouse and feet of the cliff!) We didn't mind p&j at all then and don't on Bonaire where we have a view like in the beach cams!

we also did not have air conditioning in our truck and we really did not need it once. we were just fine with the nice breezes. i will give up alot to stay longer. barry and i do overtime from august thru xmas to save in order to go on vaction to Boniare. it is worth all the work.

Thank you so much for telling about all the little critters you spotted. I saw so many new things on Bonaire and I love to learn about it all. I had never seen a nudibranch before, but they were everywhere at alice in wonderland. It's true that the surge was finicky, but that if the north was rough, you could head south and vice versa! I am also glad to hear you say that there are TWO tarpon at small wall, because my dive buddy insisted there was only one : )

Peggy Bowen: Have finally begun checking for the 'knee-savers'. May I impose on you with a question? First place I checked (very local) says DACOR 'Tiger' is the same, and dropped off the DACOR catalogue to prove it. HTM bought DACOR so I guess it makes sense.But this ds doesn't sell Mares. Did you see or test side by side? Any difference you noticed or know of? Just checking in case problem is smaller places won't carry both esp.if they think both are premium or premium price.Or if both are the same thing. Thanks, Kerri

I don't know about the Dacor tiger being the same -- the Mares fins I have are really strange. They have a 'fold' area half way down. I guess this is what makes it so much easier on the knees.
I tried my hubby's fins and a few others over the past few years as my knees have gotten worse. These Mars are SO much better for me. Do you want me to check for info? You can send any e-mail direct to pegdiver@monmouth.com