We are sitting in the departure lounge at Flamingo Airport as I begin this. Another long-anticipated trip is, alas, almost at an end. As usual we have booked for next year as inoculation against PBD and let me say, it doesn’t work too well. Standing in line at the airline counter, one feels the outside world which receded to a vague awareness in the background starting to seep in again.

We had two wonderful, relaxing, rejuvenating weeks – ten days for me, actually. As usual our list of things we wanted to do this trip went unfinished (a good thing). We fell into our usual pattern of a shore dive in the morning, sitting and reading, watching the sea, having a relaxed lunch in the afternoon, another dive in the afternoon, followed by a beer or two, then out to dinner, and back home to relax, review the day, look at our photos, and to sleep. We did finally make it for a kayak trip through the mangroves, which was fascinating and beautiful. I am now in the air and just flew over the mangroves; I could clearly see the route we took yesterday.

Our diving this trip was almost all from shore. Our favorite site this time (three dives) was Invisibles. Sarah has never seen a spotted eagle ray and we dove there in hopes of seeing one, which obligingly appeared as we reached the marker and descended for our dive. There seemed always to be a huge school of boga being pursued by jacks on the first “island” and a school of palometa hovering above the reef. Larger fish including a pair of huge grouper seemed to hang out here, and on a twilight dive we saw innumerable morays.

Our Hilma Hooker dive was somewhat more eventful than most. My BC developed a major leak ( tear near a seam}. Once ashore and with gear stowed, put the truck in gear, went about 5 feet and stopped, wheels spinning. It did not feel like we’d hit anything but let out the clutch and....nothing. A look under the truck revealed a strategically placed rock about the size of a bowling ball wedged under the rear axle.

With the help of another group of divers we tried rocking it off, unloading the truck, jacking it up to remove the rock, all to no avail. Finally with the use of a climbing rope/ strap as a tow rope, this group of good Samaritans was able to pull us off with their truck. If you are reading this, again, mashe danke!

Other dives were less eventful, saw more turtles than usual for us (five in eighteen dives) and were rewarded for getting up at 6 for a last chance dawn dive yesterday with an octopus on the reef at Belmar. We did one two-tank boat dive (Rockpile and Bonaventure), on which we got to meet and dive with Tish, who has a very sharp eye for fish and critters.

Also we enjoyed diving with Dan, another perennial Belmarian and BTer from Baltimore, in the afternoons.

Belmar, as always, was wonderful. Apt #3 is starting to feel like a second home. There were some nice improvements such as new drapes, fresh paint etc. The staff in the hotel office is great, and Chrissie, Pepe, and Martin in the dive shop could not be more helpful. After my BC failed, a replacement was a bit complicated as I use a Seaquest Airsource rather than a separate inflator and octo. This is incompatible with other makes of BCD. Chrissie knew that Carib Inn used Seaquest BC’s and called them for me. Yes, they had them: no, they wouldn’t rent to me unless I was diving through them. So that I could continue using my own reg with my air integrated computer, she had me set up with octo and new low-pressure hose and back in the water in no time.

We spent New Years’ Eve, as we have the last couple of years, with Jim and Kathi McPeak, Lutty, and Jim and Kathi’s neighbors at the Dive Inn, a very nice couple from Brazil. Jim shared with us some (only in retrospect I’m sure) hilarious stories of his youth but was laid low by a virus that was making the rounds and it was his turn to hit the hay early this year; Janet, who rarely makes it past ten, actually made it to midnight for the fireworks! We unfortunately did not make it to Jake and Linda's open house on New Year's day as we had planned.

We had some wonderful meals. Our favorite remains Capriccio, which we saved for last. Tagliatelle con Funghi, bruschetta, pumpkin ravioli, osso bucco, panna cotta with raspberry sauce, Italian cheesecake with peaches, and everything, including a wonderful and reasonable Chardonnay from Umbria, was perfect.

Will’s was probably our next favorite – inventive, interesting and beautifully presented food in a garden setting with trees stretching overhead forming a canopy, and excellent service as well. The appetizers were particularly good.

El Fogon Latino was great, simple, well-prepared food. Janet’s roast chicken was perfect. My beef rib soup served with a picante sauce of vinegar, habanero pepper and onion on the side, was incredibly flavorful. The garlic shrimp and conch were also delicious but less distinctive.

Papaya Moon was good as well but I agree with an earlier post that drink prices seem high. I stuck with beer (7 NaFl for 11 oz Corona) so I can’t say if the drinks are worth the 14 or so NAFl price. The bar in the garden area in back is absolutely beautiful. The lobster quesadilla was particularly good as was the border pork loin.

Patagonia was having a bad night while we were there. Others have had better experiences there. See Jim Mcpeak's report regarding the possible rason for this. The menu is about the same as it was at Casa Blanca, but no mixed grill . The service was extremely slow (by Bonaire standards). The setting is great, with views of the yacht harbor, and we hope that what we experienced was due to growing pains, as this place is much larger than Casa Blanca, and we know they know how to run a restaurant well. We’ll certainly give them another try next trip.

Sarah and Janet enjoyed Cactus Blue on Christmas as previously posted and I had hoped to get there too but something else for next trip.

Carniceria Latina for ribs and chicken on Saturday was, as always, terrific. Show up early, 11 am or so, especially if you want the ribs, place your order, do some shopping at Warehouse, come back and pick up the best pit smoked chicken and ribs for lunch.

Last, but not least, Gibi’s on Tuesday 1/2 was lots of fun and the kabritu stoba, funchi, & conch stew great as always. We enjoyed meeting some new people there including Tribs and Mercy, Sam and Stephanie from Texas, as well as seeing Renee, Liz and Ed.

Travel– No problems on AA/AE going down for Janet and Sarah on 12/24 or me on 12/27. So far the return has been fine (I’m now in the SJU terminal). On the way down we got rooms at the airport Best Western but today for the even longer layover (arrived in SJU around 9:30 and our return is at 6:40) we got a room at the Water Club in Isla Verde. Five minutes from the airport, and a very cool hotel, small with about 80 rooms, design with a SoBe look, roof pool and bar, and right on the beach. Someone on BT recommended this place – thank you. $99 for the day and we had the room from 10 to 5.

Overall a wonderful, relaxing, much-needed retreat. Next trip will be lucky #13. I will post a link to some more pictures when I get a chance to go through the rest. Back to the real world in the morning!

-David

Thanks for the great trip report! I thoroughly enjoyed reading it. I'm also a big Belmar fan. I wish it was my "actual" second home. Wouldn't that be great!!!

Great report David...There is some disagreement on this board over the best place for ribs & I totally agree with your assessment of the ribs at the Carnerceria Latino.. We buy it Sat morn, put it in the fridge, do a night dive & then have some of the best ribs & chicken with icy cold cerveza, right on our seaside terrace at Belmar.. As far as I'm concerned, hard to beat!! As I always tell my wife, it's the simple things in life that give me the most pleasure.

Outstanding my friend, simply outstanding. Thanks for all the great pictures too.

Small world. We also stay at the Belmar and Invisibles is our favorite dive site. 9th trip is booked for September..... not sure I can take it that long. I'll be nearly dead from PBD by then. Glad you had a great trip!!

David, great report! Sounds like you had a fantastic time and didn't let the "bumps" crush your groove Isn't the Waterclub amazing!!!! I've been to the restaurant, and the bar at the top several times, how are the rooms? The bar at the top is simply amazing at night...very kewl! Well, and the orange color funk restaurant with the waterfall behind the bar is well...kewl too! Glad you enjoyed it. $99 bucks...that's pretty good! I may have to try that myself next time

I would imagine Carib wouldn't rent for liability reasons?

Hi David! Thanks for your report, found it very informative, especially about the hotel for San Juan to spend time at for the lonnnggg layover. We will be having that same lonnngg layover in March coming back, printed this out and will try it on the trip back home. Thanks. Oh, do you have anymore pics, you have such nice ones ya know?

Vince, We are obviously of the same school re barbeque. Meat + salt+ smoke+ heat. Sugar and tomato sauce are not what it's about. Also cool to go somewhere where you're the only non local.

Marcus, maybe we'll see you at Belmar sometime. What is YMCA SLAM?

Cynde, on Bon my groove is almost non-crushable. s'all part of the trip. The rooms at the Water club are like the rest of the place - an older building skillfully spruced up with smoke and mirrors. nice modern furnishings, stereo with an iPod slot, beautiful views. I took pics, will get to posting soon.

I think Carib Inn probably won't rent so they have sufficient inventory for their guests. No other reason not to rent equipment to a certified diver that I can see. As they are a seaquest dealer and there was a warrantee issue I guess I could have gone over and tried myself but the solution was pretty straightforward. I love their shop, and have bought gear and had repairs done there many times. I think the rental policy is perfectly reasonable, ? might have been different on a non peak week.

Debbie, more pics in a few days, glad you enjoyed the ones I posted. Have a great trip in March.

-David

David: Definately hope to see ya'll at the Belmar sometime. YMCA SLAM is the YMCA's version of rescue diver. Its one of the requirements for YMCA Dive Master. I wonder if Sep 07 qualifies as "next year" on the free NITROX upgrade? Hope so. Thanks again for the report.